阅读量:
Fellow friends:
Hello! Sincerely welcome you to come to Taishan, today I and everybody will mount the summit together from the Taishan east road.
This big, ancient Taishan has contained the rich nature and cultural accumulating, has been included by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization the world nature and the cultural heritage name list. Now, we still had such to ask " like ancient;Dai Zong husband how " Then, marches into together with me the mountain, understands Taishan's charm.
Here is daimiao. From daimiao the start, after the Dai Zong work place, a fontanel, the red gate, center the fontanel, rises the immortal workplace to the south fontanel, is the road which ancient times emperor ancient rite of making sacrifices Taishan passed through, now miscalled by the well-known person " Ascends to heaven scenic area" Also calls the east road, is in the present Taishan mountaineering 6 roads most ancient. We will mount from this road Goes against Extremely.
Everybody noted has been palatial daimiao front, but also some smaller temple, this was " Remote senate pavilion " Was same year emperor the ancient rite of making sacrifices Taishan's initial station. Same year the king came when Taishan held the ancient rite of making sacrifices Standard Offers a sacrifice to, all first must in here hold simply pays respect to the ceremony, therefore before Ming Dynasty, called this was " Grass senate pavilion " . When the Ming Dynasty performs the extension, changes name is " Remote senate pavilion" . Although is a character is easy, the base was reverent actually contains.
The friends, China's ancient architecture has the unique status in the world construction history, this remote senate pavilion construction idea already will stem from the ancient rite of making sacrifices grand ceremony from this but step by step to enter the high tide for the prelude the need, after also will be esthetics thought manifesting which China ancient times first damped raises.
In the right noon time gate was daimiao, was even is a mysterious side.daimiao has the like this charm, decides to it own characteristic. First, its fence then is different with the general temple, the fence week 1,300 meters, 5 cornerstones, on build Blue Big the brick, assumes the trapezoid, gets down the width 17.6 meters, on the width 11meters, the high approximately 10 meters, altogether have 8 gates: Center is the right noon time gate, is daimiao main entrance. Enters by the right noon time gate daimiao comes, the front surface matches the fontanel, takes " which Kong Zi said; Germany matches world "Meaning. Matches the fontanel two sides, east for Works Three the marquis palace, west for too , between three palaces to the wall is connected, the constitution daimiao among as soon as enters the courtyard.
Crossed the kernel peaceful gate, then is grand big Song Tiankuang, it calls the towering extremely palace, is this temple main body. Day palace surface extravagant 9, 643.67 meters, depth of a house 5, 17.18meters, pass the height 23.3 meters. Everybody looked that, the day palace is situated above the spacious white station base, periphery the stone carving fence surrounds, the cloud shape looks the column uneven row, caused the day palace to have the marvelous effect with all around environment.
Around the day palace serves with the winding corridor, has formed a big courtyard, in China's construction, the porch plays enable the space to have thoroughly, collects was mad, close, is rigorous and also is rich in the change the role, this is in the world construction history all performs to praise. daimiao the winding corridor closely is surrounding a double-eaved roof Palace big building, straight and the lofty contrast has aroused the people to day palace revering. Our country the ancient architecture fully realized in world not absolutely greatly absolutely small, the size is produces from the contrast, besides all around Even Low the winding corridor, in front of the day palace in the platform has also repaired two exquisite imperial tablets pavilions, both has highlighted the day palace, and to the grand center house holds tranquilly is comfortable, therefore the day palace certainly was not the grand two characters may summarize.
slanders the back door from the day to leave, has the bricks and stones road and the latter imperial palace is connected. When songzhenzong seals Taishan, because Taishan will seal will be "Emperor " The emperor must have " Latter " Thereuponthen has matched Madame " for it; Shu next two " . Looked like from this point, daimiao if said is the Taoism god government office, but also was inferior to said likes the imperial palace, this kind of layout had further disclosed the feudal ruler uses daimiao carries on the political activity the utility goal.
A moment ago, we were along daimiao main spool thread tour, but advocates the spool thread two sides, originally in addition has 4individual courtyards, around the east side two courtyards, first is" Chinese cypress courtyard " Hands down 6 copals which Martial emperor of Han dynasty plants on in this courtyard; Latter is" East imperial place " Is emperor offers a sacrifice to the place which Taishan stays.
Here was Taishan famous 18. The about 2.5 billion years ago, in timeare called as by the geologist " Taishan movement " In the orogenesis, ancient Taishan first time is vast from a piece rises, later several vicissitudes, Taishan raises submerges, the submersion raises, finally in 30 million year ago " Himalaya Mountains orogenesis " Center, Taishan finally has formed today appearance. The ancient orogenesis has accomplished south Taishan the foothill steps and ladders type rise three fault zones, on most from the cloud foot-bridge fault zone to Goes against Extremely, the elevation suddenly rises more than 400 rice, causes this region to have the striking contrast with all around the group peak, just like checking of the pagoda, has formed " East day column " Imposing manner.
Here is tight 18, also was the entire mountaineering Road Plate centermost difficult land sector. Everybody looked that, the cliff antiquity person’s topic engraves: " Diligently climb up " "Wanshan " " Altogether climbs blue scaling ladder " ...... That is encouraging us. Everybody looked again that, that shoulders hundred catties Selects Shan Gong, again thought the same year did not have a non- surname Chisel stone to build roads the person... ... The mountain does not have the word, but they can drive the people are upward. The friend, the mountaineering just like does any enterprise, only has is dutifully upward, can defeat difficult, can arrive the highest boundary!
South the fontanel arrived, we have now placed oneself " Day" Although we have not certainly become an immortal, but we understood " in here; Ascends Tianshan but small world "Heroics.
Has entered south the fontanel, relative is the main hall names with it is " Not porch " Porch two sides each has not been allowed north. Leaves the gate to have a mountain peak toward the west to call " Month view peak " On the mountain has the pavilion, famous month view pavilion. It is said, the clear sky and fresh air late autumn season, also may to as soon as look at " inhere; Yellow River gold brings " Strange landscape: Shines upon in the setting sun under the backdrop, the big diastrophism has been dark, only some tune yellow river water, reflected sun's glory, liked flash the golden belt, day in place continually in same place. At nightfall, under the bright moonlight, looks obviously Jinan’s lamplights of ten thousand families from this the north, therefore the month view peak calls " Looks government office mountain " .
South leaves east the fontanel courtyard to fold namely for the day street. Day street, space downtown, rich poetic sentiment place. Travels to the East along the day street, center north has a workplace, on the inscribed horizontal tablet the topic has " LooksWu Shengji " This is hands down Kong Zi and Yan Yuan sees WuGuochang outside the gate a white horse's place. North the work place has the Kong Zi temple.
The day street most east end was the blue rosy cloud ancestral hall, Igave everybody to tell the blue rosy cloud female immortal's story. The blue rosy cloud female immortal's predecessor is the Taishangoddess, is called as in the folk " Angel beautiful woman blue rosy cloud female immortal " Is in common people mind TaishanLord, and is called as " Taishan Grandma " " Taishanold mother " . The populace to the Taishan old mother's period offive days belief and the affection, are burying which one kind of history accumulates down in the people mind in-depth to the mother the love. How many year, the blue rosy cloud female immortal has won common people's love, until now still lorded over summit of the Taishan, was accepting Buddhism believers' incense and candle, summoned is going to the decoy which the township left country's.
Good, lets us enter to the blue rosy cloud temple. 2,500 square meters places, have built up the entrance, the main hall, Matches Palace, 3 gods gates, the bell tower, the drum tower, Fragrant Pavilion, long live the building, the extremely heavy tripod with two handles, the fire pond, but also has According to Wall, the dance building, the imperial tablet pavilion... ...Moreover is the imperial mountain gust of wind, the palace is Copper Tile, the tablet is a brass casting, glittering, solemn space palace .The Taishan blue rosy cloud ancestral hall high construction skill was considered was our country ancient times the mountain construction model, the person dances to here goes on a pilgrimage certainly does not feel its slightly but sense its is big, the sacred feeling arose spontaneously. Now, in Taishan blue rosy cloud ancestral hall architectural complex an alone standard .
Leaves east the blue rosy cloud ancestral hall north the god gate to fold along the winding mountain road on again, obviously a cliff stands rock-firm, on the cliff the carved stone proliferates, spectacular, personal " Big view peak " . West the big view peak leans, on several years all stones also all has ancient's writing skill, area this it may be said is the open-air calligraphy art museum.
Along the big view peak west the side winding mountain road on, to the most high place, on these road looked resembles the stone steps finally arrived terminus, here was Taishan Goes against Extremely -- Jade Emperor goes against.
Temple of the Jade Emperor constructs in Goes against Extremely on, the red ocher wall green glazed tile picture was has put on a laurel crown to Taishan.Enters the temple by the entrance, first saw is courtyard central" Extremely capstone " . Extremely the capstone lies in center, high not full rice, surface roughness, if in elsewhere, will be together the ordinariest not place stone. But in here, itsside has the tablet is writing: " Taishan Goes against Extremely 1,545meter " . According to the geology analysis, is it, from Sea Trough center takes the lead in 30 million years ago to haunch up, it is rooted in to 1 myriameter earth's crust deep place; Is it, has several hundred square kilometers bases, the entire place mountain is lifting it in the request, causes it to stand tall and erect the cloud day, down to in Temple of the Jade Emperor's Jade Emperor big emperor has simply become its patron god.
The friends, a day-long traveling schedule already ended. Hoped you can arrive Taishan to come once again. Thanks everybody!
各位女士、各位先生:
首先,对大家来泰山旅游、观光表示热烈欢迎!
希望大家在泰山逗留期间能够玩得开心,吃、住放心,同时希望大家在泰山游览当中能够得到一个较大的收获,留下一个美好的记忆。
泰山,古称岱宗,它位于山东省东部,华北大平原的东侧,面积426平方公里,海拔1545米,方位为东经117度6分,北纬36度16分。泰山雄伟壮丽,历史悠久,文物众多,以“五岳独尊”的盛名称誉古今。巍巍泰山就像一座民族的丰碑屹立于中华大地,举世瞩目。
1982年,泰山被国务院列为批国家重点风景名胜区,1987年被联合国教科文组织列为世界自然与文化遗产,1992年荣登全国旅游胜地40佳金榜。泰山至今保护较好的古建筑群有22处,总建筑面积达14万多平方米。在古建筑群之间,还有12处石坊、6座石桥、7座石亭、1座铜亭和1座铁塔。泰山刻石有2200多处,被誉为“中国摩崖刻石博物馆”,这里有中国碑制最早的刻石--泰山秦刻石;有珍贵的汉代张迁碑、衡方碑和晋孙夫人碑;有被誉为“大字鼻祖”、“榜书之宗”的北齐经石峪刻石;有天下洋洋大观的唐玄宗<<纪泰山铭>>和唐代双束碑等。泰山古树名木繁多,被誉为“活着的世界自然遗产”。泰山百年以上的古树名木3万余株,其中有2100年前的汉柏6株,1300年前生的唐槐,500年前生的望人松、五大夫松,还有一棵被誉为国宝的600年前生的盆景松树“小六朝松”。泰山素以壮美著称,呈现出雄、奇、险、秀、幽、奥、旷等诸多美的形象,泰山景区内有山峰12座,崖岭78座,岩洞18处,奇石58块,溪谷12条,潭池瀑布56处,山泉64处,有的黑龙潭、扇子崖、天烛峰、桃花峪等10大自然景观;有旭日东升、晚霞夕照、黄河金带、云海玉盘等10大自然奇观。
泰山的日出,是一个想象的世界,神奇的世界,日出景象的美妙是笔墨难以形容的。自古以来,无数诗人对泰山日出的壮丽景观都有过生动的描述。宋代词人梅圣俞的“晨登日观峰,海水黄配熔。浴出车轮光,随天行无踪。”的绝句尤为人爱,凌晨破晓前,站在日观峰,举目东方,晨星渐没,微晕稍露,天地间的一片云海滚动,稍顷,晨曦透过云层照亮东方,这时天空由灰变黄,继而呈现橙、紫、红瑰丽的朝霞,波浪似的云层,在阳光的照耀下,组成一幅幅五彩缤纷、绮丽多姿的图案,旭日在阳光中婷婷娜娜从云层升起,阳光因受海波起伏的影响忽隐忽现,闪烁不定,日轮缓升时又受波峰、波谷推进的影响上下跳动,渐渐成圆形,磅礴而出,金光四射,群峰尽染,大地一片光明。
夕阳西下时,朵朵残云飘浮在天际,落日的余辉如一道道金光穿过云朵洒满山间。太阳象一个巨大的玉盘,由白变黄,越来越大,天空如缎似锦,待到夕阳沉入云底,霞光变成一片火红,天际云朵,山峰好象在燃烧,天是红的,山是红的,云是红的,大地也是红的。举目远眺,黄河象一条飘带,弯弯曲曲从天际飘来,在落日的映照下,白色缎带般的黄河泛起红润,波光翻滚,给人以动的幻觉。“一条黄水似衣带,穿破世间通银河”。太阳慢慢靠向黄河,彩带般的黄河象是系在太阳上,在绛紫色的天边飞舞。泰山的云雾是变幻莫测的。雨后初晴,大量水气蒸发蒸腾,加之夏季季风自海上吹来的暖温空气,成云致雾。有时大片云在山腰形成一条长长的带子,如同官服玉带,而山上山下皆晴;有时则乌云滚滚,大有倒海翻江之势;也有时白云平铺,如大地铺絮,山谷堆雪,团团白云如同千万个玉盘,轻拢漫涌,铺排相接,好象平静如无垠的汪洋大海,这就是的“云海玉盘”。
碧霞宝光是泰山的又一大奇景。“宝光”俗称“佛光”,多出现在碧霞祠东、西、南神门外,碧霞祠地处玉皇顶的前怀,地势相对低凹,云雾较为浓密且较稳定,在弥漫背后照来,人影呈现在雾幕上,周围形成内紫外红彩色光环,烨烨生辉,彩环呈现红、橙、黄、绿、青、蓝、紫七色,有时还会出现双环,更加绚丽动人。站在雾幕前的游客举手投足,光环中的影子也手舞足蹈,油然而生飘飘欲飞成仙人之感。
泰山的冬季,气温常在-20摄氏度左右,雪后天晴,气温回暖,大陆气团稍有减少,南方暖温气团乘虚而入,雾气笼罩山间,微风吹动,飘浮的雾滴触及树枝、岩石、房顶,凝结成冰粒,层层叠叠,便形成了“千枝琼玉”、“万树花”的雾淞奇景。泰山上下成了一个洁白如银的世界,犹如龙宫洞府,别有一番情调。
泰山的冬季,也常有冷却的雨滴,降落到地面上、物体上,急速结成坚硬、滑而透明的冰层,这就是“雨淞”。每当雨淞出现,山峦树木象冰晶倒挂,地面岩石似铺明镜,泰山变成了冰雕玉琢的“琉璃世界”。雨后天晴,红日映冰峰,蓝天衬霞山,光彩夺目,金光迸射,满山松柏映雪,到处银装素裹,好一派冰清玉洁的北国风光。
泰山地区得天独厚的自然环境和悠久的历史文化孕育造就了千姿百态的丽山秀水和人文名胜,生动地记录了我们中华民族发展历史的文明篇章。现代考古科学的研究已揭示出在5万年前的旧石器时期,泰山周围已经有了人类活动的踪迹。大量史料也都记载了泰山地区早在母系氏族社会阶段已经显露出文明的曙光。在5千年前的新石器时代,泰山南麓的大汶口文化、北麓的龙山文化,不仅影响到山东,而且影响到黄河中下游的广大地区。春秋战国时期形成的“齐鲁之邦”是中国历史上政治、经济、文化高度发达的地区之一,产生了孔子、孟子等历史文化名人。历史告诉我们,泰山地区早在远古时代就已经成为东方文化的重要发祥地,而泰山在先秦时代就已成为中国最早的名山,成为五岳之首。
泰山实际海拔高度并不太高,在五岳中次于恒山、华山,仅占第三位。与全国的许多大山相比都不能望其项背。但它为什么成为赫赫于古今的“五岳之长”、“五岳独宗”而独享盛名呢?这要从泰山的地理环境和原始宗教谈起。
泰山崛起于华北平原之东,凌驾于齐鲁平原之上,东临烟波浩淼的大海,西靠源远流长的黄河,南有汶、泗、淮之水,与平原、丘陵相对高差1300米,形成强烈的对比,因而在视觉上显得格外高大;奏感和“一览众山小”的高旷气势;山脉绵亘100余公里,盘卧426平方公里,其基础宽大产生安稳感,形体庞大而集中则产生厚重感,大有“镇坤维而不摇”之威仪。所谓“稳如泰山”、“重如泰山”,正是其自然特征在人们生理、心理上的反映。
从古到今,人们总把泰山作为一个高大、美好、高尚、坚毅的形象,热情加以歌颂。公元前二世纪,司马迁在他的<<报任少卿书>>中就写道:“人固有一死,或重于泰山,或轻于鸿毛”。毛主席曾引用了司马迁的这名话教导人们,“为人民利益而死,就比泰山还重”。这种把泰山精神与人生的意义、人生观密切联系起来的做法,在教育人民中发挥了很大作用。
六朝任方<<述异记>>载,秦汉时,民间传说盘古氏(远古时开天辟地,代生万物的神人)死后头为东岳,左臂为南岳,右臂为北岳,足为西岳。盘古尸体的头向东方,而且化为东岳,泰山就成了当然的五岳之首了。这显然是根据<<五行>>、<<五德>>学说创作的神话故事,反映了泰山独尊五岳的历史背景。
东方是太阳出升的地方,古人即认为是万物交替、初春发生之地。因此,东方就成了生命之源,希望和吉祥的象征。而古代先民又往往把雄伟奇特的东岳视为神灵,把山神作为祈求风调雨顺的对象来崇拜,于是,地处东方的泰山--这个通天拔地的庞然大物便成了“万物孕育之所”的“吉祥之山”、“神灵之宅”了。受天命而帝王的“天子”更把泰山看成是国家统一,权力的象征。为答谢天帝的“授命”之恩,也必到泰山封神祭祀。商周时期,商王相土在泰山脚下建东都,周天子以泰山为界建齐鲁;传说中秦汉以前,就有72代君王到泰山封神,此后秦始皇、秦二世、汉武帝、汉光武帝、汉章帝、汉安帝、隋文帝、唐高宗、武则天、唐玄宗、宋真宗、清帝康熙、乾隆等古帝王接踵到泰山封禅致祭,刻石纪功。历代帝王借助泰山的神威巩固自己的统治,使泰山的神圣地位被抬到了无以复加的程度。
伴随着历代帝王的封禅祭祀,泰山成了各种宗教流派活动的重要场所。早在战国时期就有了黄伯阳修道于山后,以后历代道家名人都曾在泰山传经布道,建观筑庙。佛教自东晋高僧郎公创建郎公寺开始,在泰山也不断发展。
泰山吸引了众多的文化名人,历代诗人墨客纷至沓来,他们朝山览胜,赋诗撰文,留下了丰富的文化精品。孔子、管仲、司马迁、张衡、诸葛亮、曹植、李白、杜甫、刘禹锡、苏东坡、欧阳修、范仲淹、王世贞、姚奈、郭沫若等都挥笔疾书,留下了浩如烟海的颂岱诗文,把游人从山神崇拜中引向游览观赏、求知审美的新方向。由山脚拾级而上,到泰山之巅,仅摩崖石刻就有千余处,从秦至清,历代皆有巨制。书体众彩纷呈,书意各代不同,其规模之大,作品之多,时代之连续性以及风格、流派、艺术之精湛,构景之巧妙都是世界名山无与伦比的。刻古中所包含的高韵深情与巍巍壮丽的泰山融合在一起,充分体现了中华民族自强不息的崇高精神。
在泰山数千年的文明中,历代劳动人民所创造的一系列辉煌的人文景观与高大雄伟的自然景观相结合,形成了泰山的崇高形象,构成了独特的泰山风景景观。人文景观的布局与创作,是根据自然景观,尤其是地形特点和封禅、游览、观赏活动的需要而设计的。代表性的是帝王封禅、百姓朝山进香的路线。其主体是拔地通天的自然景观,主题是封天禅地的思想内容,布局形式重点是祭地的蒿里山,经帝王驻驿的岱庙到封天的玉皇顶构成了长达10余公里的地府--人间--天堂的三重空间一条轴线。即以城西南过奈河桥至蒿里山(在泰安火车站东南侧)为“阴曹地府”;泰安城区为人间;自城北岱宗坊开始,沿长达6666级的“天梯”至岱顶为“天府”。
泰安城是因古帝王封禅祭祀、百姓朝山进香和游览观光发展而成的。岱庙是泰城中轴线上的主体,这条中轴线从泰城南门起,延伸到岱宗坊,然后与登山盘道相接而通向“天庭”,使山与城不仅在功能上,而且在建筑空间序列上形成一体。其序列按登山祭祀活动的程序次第展开,贯穿着一种由“人境”至“仙境”的历程。从地形上看,是由缓坡、斜坡直到陡坡,人们由低到高,步步升高,宛若登上天府;从建筑规模上看,是由人间帝王宫殿上达苍穹,渐入仙境;从色调上看,红墙黄瓦始终与苍松翠柏形成对比。再通过三里一旗杆,五里一牌坊,门、二天门(中天门)、三天门(南天门),三重节奏,构成了一道步步登天,雄伟壮观的朝天序列。
泰山古建筑最突出的特点就是对地理环境的利用,它巧妙地因自然之势,又以人工之力加强和美化自然环境。其一,在封禅祭祀活动的序列空间位置的选择上,充分利用泰山南坡由缓渐陡之势,造成登“天梯”的意境。此路沿溪而上,人在谷中行,属“封闭型”自然景观,下段是紧紧收缩,直至岱顶才开放。前奏长,对比十分强烈,对于“祭天”活动来说,造成环境感应的心理状态,若步步登天,扣人心弦。登临南天门骤然开阔,恰似升仙。因此,这样的地理环境是封禅祭祀空间序列的杰作。其二,在建单体或群体位置的选择与建筑结构的创作上,有跨道而建的门户建筑,有登山转折处的导向性建筑,有临溪而设的赏景建筑,有半山悬挂的宗教建筑,也有耸立山巅的祭祀建筑等。其三,从建筑的结构、材料、装饰及以庭院空间为基本单元的群体组合上,均能适应地形环境多变的要求,该建亭的建亭,该设阁的则设阁;需开敞通透处即造型轻巧,需收缩空间处便实厚重,充分体现因景而设,因境而生的建筑思想。
泰山古建筑主要保存的是明清时期的风格,它的价值不仅在于建筑与会画、雕刻、山石、林木融为一体,成为中国古老文化的例证,保存了一个巨大的封禅祭祀序列和一幅记载历史的立体画卷,而且还为我们留下了顺应自然的建筑典范,以其特有的艺术形象去协调和加强自然美,去表现和深化自然环境。由于它们的存在,才使泰山的自然景观与人文景观相映生辉,使峻极于天的泰山深入到几亿炎黄子孙的心坎中,并名扬全世界,成为全为类的珍贵遗产。
登泰山,自古3条路。原来的东路已毁,原来的中路自然而然地成了现在的东路,游人在泰安火车站下火车后,可先游岱庙,然后从岱庙后门至岱宗坊,步行经中天门到南天门,或步行至中天门后转乘索道到南天门,再沿天街经碧霞祠登上泰山极顶。若走中路(原来的西路),从泰安火车站下车后,可乘游览汽车沿环山公路经黑龙潭、竹林寺直达中天门,然后从中天门乘索道或步行到南天门,再沿天街直至岱顶。若从西路上山,需从泰安火车站乘游览汽车至界首(泰安与济南的交界处)向北折,沿新辟的环山公路,在鸟语花香,泉水叮咚的茂林深谷中穿行至桃花源索道站,从这里乘索道可直至天街的北端,真可谓一步登天了!
各位朋友,我的介绍就到这里。俗话说:百闻不如一见,大家要想对泰山有一个深刻的了解,还需要根据自己的兴趣,亲身投入到泰山的怀抱里,沿着历史文化的足迹慢慢地去游览,仔细地去观赏。
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